Mexico: the first climb

It's day three and we've made it to Mexico after a slow start. When a bad storm hit Chicago our flight was delayed, which meant we weren't making our connection in Chicago. After much negotiation with United, Jorge got the first flight out with a connection in DC. I got a sweet Air Canada flight (direct!) later that day. Jorge is still upset and his legs are cramped from the United Express airplane (not jet).

We've seen a lot already. We've toured Mexico City by tour bus, foot, subway and taxi - Chapultepec Park, the Reforma financial district, Polanco (like Yorkville meets Robson Street) and Condesa (like Queen West meets Liberty Village). The sights are great. The bars are fantastic. We found an Irish pub last night - it was like we never left Canada. We'll check out more bars in Querétaro - leaving tomorrow morning by bus.

We toured the Teotihuacán (the pyramids outside Mexico City) today. We decided to go to the pyramids early - leaving at 6 am - with a taxi, then shady bus connection, instead of taking the typical tourist bus. We fell asleep and almost missed our stop. The bus driver was yelling in Spanish to “wake up and get off the bus”. Once we were awake, we realized it didn't open until 9 am. We were not happy. Anyhow, the pyramids were amazing after all. Pictures will follow tomorrow once we reach Querétaro.

Se ven, hasta luego. Ryan y Jorge.

PS - we bitched about our very small hotel room on the first night and are now staying in an executive suite with private access. The suite is bigger than Jorge's and my apartments combined. I'm not sure how we managed that, but I'm guessing Jorge is a good negotiator in Spanish.

The second entry of this blog, the first one for your Mexican friend. It’s been a while, but I still remember my first atempt to the top. It was nothing close to anything I had before.

The Northwestern ledge led the way to Bernal’s summit. That old, poor secured route better known as ‘El Filo’ (The Edge) tought me the hard way why the rock must be respected.

I was 19, the youngest of a party of five (Jorge, Temo, Poncho, Mel and I), had the strongest arms in team, and explosive leg power. I was cocky and extremely confident. I was everything but experienced. Poor footwork and lack of patience in the second pitch gave me my first fall. A memorable fall known among friends as ‘el vuelo del zorro’ (the flight of the fox).

‘El Filo’ used to be a tricky route: you free climbed a 30 metre rock before jumping –literally- to mount onto the north face of Bernal. You couldn’t help it but feeling on top of the world after that. Not exactly the best thing for a freshman before attempting one of the most dangeous moves from any sport route in Bernal.

A pitch after, the infamous ‘Z’ –a part of the rock that HAS to be zig-zaged no matter what- secretely awaited for you. The ‘Z’ is the official point of no return. Once mounted on it, there is no way you can safely rappel down.

I never read the ‘Z’ correctly, I was quick to use my arms thinking they would get me out. I never realized footwork was the key. ‘De ladito y de reversa’ (backwards and sideways) my friend Poncho yelled at me.’How stupid is that’ I thought… so kept muscling myself up. I fell 6 metres just over a cactus and crushed my shoulders against the sidewall. After reincorporating in front of Mel’s look of incredulity, I tried to muscle myself again –no backpack this time.

Second fall in the same move. Second visit to the cactus. Second time my back and shoulders suffered the same hit. It had been so hard that even being 60 metres above my head, Jorge could hear it. The result: two broken ribs, a dislocated hips and a huge contusion in my back.

Next Saturday will be different: Neither Ryan or myself depend on pure strength, we just can’t! I’m fat and heavy. Our climbing style is clearly based on footwork and grip power. Which is better, makes us more patient.

The most interesting part is the fact that this is my first multipitch climb in almost 3 years and the first with Mr. Roberts. Should be fun. My favourite playground raises 400 meters above the ground and is waiting for me.

It's time to stop slacking and start packing. In a few days, I'll be off to Mexico for an 11 day adventure of culture, sight seeing and rock climbing. But first, MY INAUGURAL BLOG POSTING!

Follow me as I explore the countryside with my Mexican friend, Jorge (hore-hay). Landing in Mexico City on Friday, July 28th, our plan is to visit the sights, restaurants and bars until late the next evening. On Sunday, we'll be going out of town to visit the pyramids, which is lucky because i just learned that a major political rally will be held in front of our hotel. It seems the PRD (Party of the Democratic Revolution) is protesting the recent Presidential Election results. A few hundred thousand politically charged Mexican's and me. Should be fun.

After that, it's off to Queretaro City to stay with Jorge's family. We expect a lot of food, drink and rock climbing in this region, which should last several days at least. From this point we're not sure what the trip holds. However, we plan to finish the adventure by climbing Pena de Bernal, the second largest monolith in the world. Soaring over 400 metre out of the desert like surrounding, this climb will be one to remember.

Anyhow, I'm off to pack now. Check back for updates and photos starting this weekend. I'll be posting as much as possible. But it may only be every few days.